INSTALLATION
Basic Tools:
·
Carpenter's
Square
·
Levels
(2)
·
Drill
with assorted size drill bits. (1/8"-1/4").
·
Drill
with Phillips bit driver.
·
The
appropriate stainless-steel screws for attaching the cabinets to your wall.
·
#8
x 1-1/4" Stainless Steel Pan Head screws (to attach cabinets together).
·
Clamps
with protective rubber pads.
·
Plastic
shims.
·
Tape
measure.
·
Saw
(Circular or Table)
·
Hammer
Cabinet Layout:
Your base
cabinets are shipped with wood blocks attached to the top of the cabinet box.
These are used for shipping and to protect the cabinet.
Set all your
cabinets in place according to your cabinet layout. Set the cabinets on their
tops facing the wall and remove all packaging.
Insert the
supplied leg-levelers in cabinet sockets. Do a rough leg-leveler adjustment for
a leg height of 4-1/2".
Carefully
flip the cabinets over (2 people recommended) to set them on their legs. Remove
the protective wood blocks.
We recommend
that you take all doors off and remove all drawers before installation.
Put them in
a safe place away from the install site.
Be sure to
put them on the same spot they were removed from after cabinet installation.
Cabinet Installation:
Mark a level
line from the center of the wall at 34-3/4" high.
Most outside
areas are slopped for drainage, so start with the cabinet at the highest point
of the slope.
Set the
first cabinet at that point adjusting the legs to set the top of the cabinet to
34-3/4" high.
Be sure the
cabinet is level from side to side, front to back and left to right. Use a
carpenter's square to ensure the cabinet is square.
Predrill at
least 2-3/16" holes in the cabinet back. More can be drilled if needed.
Attach the
cabinet to the wall with the appropriate screws. (i.e., stain-less tap cons for
block, stainless wood screws for wood).
Set the next
cabinet in place and repeat the leveling process.
Align the 2
cabinet faces together flush and clamp the cabinets together. Be sure there are
no gaps between the cabinets.
Predrill the
second cabinet to the first with an 1/8" drill bit at 1-1/4" deep.
Try to put
the screw where it is not seen, such as the top corner or behind a hinge.
Attach the 2
cabinets together with #8 x 1-1/4" stainless pan head screws.
Repeat
process until complete.
Cabinets can
be centered on the wall and then the filler can be cut to fit the existing gap
between the cabinet and the side wall if applicable.
We recommend
using a filler at least 2" wide to allow space for the door swing and
drawer to open without contacting the side wall.
Double check
that all cabinets are square, level, and plumb!
Grill and Side Burner
Cabinets:
Grill
cabinets come in a farm sink style construction.
The front
panel is removable and used to trim out the face of the grill if necessary.
The panel
behind the removable panel is cut to fit your grills insulated jacket.
Be sure to
allow for the thickness of the countertop when cutting the panel.
If your
grill liner comes with a flange, then it will sit on top of the countertop.
If your grill
liner does not have a flange then you can use extra toe kick material, etc. to
reinforce if from underneath.
Check with
the manufacturer for proper installation.
There are
1-4 grill vents cut into the cabinet deck for ventilation depending on the size
of your grill cabinet.
Whether you
buy your grill from us or another source you must buy the insulated liner with
it.
DO NOT INSTALL YOUR GRILL OR SIDE BURNER IN A
CABINET WITHOUT THE INSULATED LINER!
Wall Cabinets:
Wall
cabinets are installed much in the same way.
If you do
have wall cabinets, it's easier to install them first so you are not reaching
over the base cabinets.
Use at least
4 attaching screws in the corners to secure the cabinets. More can be used if
needed!
Make sure
they stay square and will line up correctly with the base cabinets.
Cutting Cabinets:
Cabinets can
be cut for plumbing, gas and electric with a hole saw or paddle bit.
For larger
cuts, you can use a jig saw.
Do not cut
at corners or anywhere that will compromise the strength and integrity of the
cabinet.
Installing Toe kick:
Toe kick is
available in different sizes and designed to be cut to fit to the slope of your
area.
After
installing your cabinets, cut the toe kick to fit underneath the cabinets.
Mark the
back of the toe kick where it meets the leg-leveler.
Install the
black plate and the white clip and clip the toe kick to the leg leveler. It's
that easy!
Finish:
After
everything is installed and you are satisfied that you are done, you can put on
the doors and drawers.
(Some people
choose to leave them off until the tops are installed to minimize damage.)
Some minor
adjusting of doors and drawers may be required due to shipping. If so do it now
before putting on your handles or knobs.
Carefully
install your chosen handles or knobs.
If you have any questions or concerns, please
call us at 772-497-6570
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